Three Golden Bridge Watch New Platinum Edition Exclusive Review
If there is a watch that can fully represent the Girard-Perregaux tourbillon, it is La Esmeralda 99275-53-000-BA6E. Of course, the brand’s Laureato series and the 1966 series are also very good. The movement structure of the 99275-53-000-BA6E is quite special. The exquisite hand-decorated parts and the overall symmetrical layout are the best at Chiba. Launched in 2016 for the 225th anniversary of the brand, the La Esmeralda Tourbillon was inspired by the pocket watch of the same name that was created in 1889 and now features a stylish white gold case.
Girard-Perregaux’s iconic design is not the latest creation. In fact, this “three-bridge” styling was developed as early as 1860 and became the hallmark of most of the brand’s high-end watches, often connected to the tourbillon regulator. There are of course some non-tourbillon models or more modern iterations, but the symmetrical structure of the three horizontal bridges and movements is the brand’s iconic design element.
“Esmeralda” means two watches. Most people may be familiar with the recently launched watch 99275-53-000-BA6E, which was launched to commemorate the 225th anniversary of the brand, but few people know that this piece was created by Constant Girard. Directly inspired by the famous watch, this 1889 tourbillon watch consists of three golden bridges and won a gold medal at the Paris World Expo. After the award, the famous jeweler and watch retailer, Hauser, Zivy & Cie, the owner of the Paris and Mexico “La Esmeralda” boutique, was authorized to sell this special pocket watch, which became the name of today’s new watch.
In 2016, Girard-Perregaux re-emerged La Esmeralda’s movement structure and rich decoration, while using a modern-sized case, this watch won the GPHG 2016 tourbillon watch award. Although habillage has nothing to do with the original pocket watch, the movement has great respect for this cornerstone work.
The Girard-La’s La Esmeralda Tourbillon 99275-53-000-BA6E relies on a vertically aligned movement with all technical elements on the axis from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock. From the top are the large gears up to the concentric miniature balance below, the middle is the gears of the gear train, followed by the one-minute tourbillon and the iconic frame at 6 o’clock, which are identical to the antique Esmeralda design.
All of these elements are placed under three lateral bridges and made of pure gold. The double-arrow design of the three cross-bridges is entirely hand-decorated and polished, inspired by the historic Esmeralda bridge. The surface of the arrow is mirror-polished, the edges are hand-cut and the edges are straight. As with the 1889 work, use a polishing machine to manually round the bridge arm carefully. At their center, the diamond-polished chain is secured by two screws, and the center wheel and tourbillon bracket make the structure stronger.
At the same time, in order to accommodate this large 36.60mm movement, the Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda tourbillon is available in a 44mm case and is available in 18k white gold and pink gold versions. In order to follow the theme of “white metal”, the golden bridge is usually matched with the same material as the case, and the same is true for the two hands. The overall style is presented more cautiously. In addition, the movement components and main deck are ornately decorated with a guilloché pattern.
The La Esmeralda Tourbillon 99275-53-000-BA6E features a hand-stitched black alligator strap and a white gold three-fold clasp. The price is 200,000 euros.